Film and TV drama

Hair and make-up designer (Film and TV Drama)

Also known as: Hair designer, Make-up designer

Hair and make-up designer (Film and TV Drama)

What does a hair and make-up designer do?

In film and TV drama, hair and make-up designers help actors portray their characters by using hair and make-up to create a look.

In pre-production, they work closely with the director to understand the style of the story. They break down the script, noting the hair and make-up requirements at each point and working out who they need to recruit to the team.  

They make appointments for actors' wig fittings, prosthetic and dental appointments. They draw up notes about actors, detailing each scene’s hair and make-up changes (these notes are vital for maintaining continuity throughout the production) and work with the camera department on test shots to see how the hair and make-up looks under different lighting conditions.

During production, they are one of the first to the set in the mornings, leading the team, keeping everyone to schedule and managing the budget.

On larger features and in the USA, hair and make-up designers are two separate roles.  On smaller productions, they are combined.

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What’s a hair and make-up designer good at?

  • Hair and make-up: be adept in the craft of cutting and colouring, wigs, extensions and beards, glamour make-up, corrective make-up, ageing face, hands and neck
  • Hair and make-up history: know the story of hair and make-up throughout the ages, be able to research
  • Styling: understand the director’s vision, know what that means for hair and make-up, have a good eye for the look
  • Communication: share the vision of the style with team members, be the liaison between the director and the rest of the team, put actors at ease
  • Organisation: break down a script into hair and make-up requirements, schedule the hair and make-up needs, manage the team, budget and daily call sheet

Who does a hair and make-up designer work with?

On large productions, the roles of make-up artist and hairdresser are separate. Chief make-up artists work closely with costume designers and hairdressers to ensure that each actors' look complements every aspect of the script. Having created individual designs they make sure that actors are comfortable with their look and note any allergies or sensitivities. They recruit a team of make-up artists and distribute briefs and continuity notes. During shooting, they supervise the make-up process and may work as a personal make-up artist for a principal actor.

Likewise, chief hairdresser is a separate role from chief make-up artist on big budget features. The chief hairdresser reads the script to determine each actors’ styling and then recruits and briefs a team of hairdressers. During shooting, they supervise the whole hairdressing department and may work as a personal hairdresser if requested by one of the principal actors.

Increasingly, artists are expected to be skilled in both hair and make-up. They apply make-up, wash, cut, blow-dry, style and set hair, apply products using specialised techniques to create specific designs, set and dress wigs and hairpieces and work with facial hair and false pieces, such as beards and moustaches. They may also apply special effects make-up such as grazes, cuts and bruises and bald caps. Make-up and hair artists usually accompany performers on set and standby during scenes to touch-up makeup and ensure continuity is maintained. 

In make-up, prosthetics are special effects, like werewolf faces, or bruises, cuts and grazes. Prosthetic artists are responsible for creating these. They break down a script and analyse what prosthetics are needed for what character. They estimate the time and cost of making prosthetics and create bald caps, prosthetics pieces, facial parts and scars, depending on the script. Normally prosthetic artists will apply the prosthetics to performers themselves (which can take hours) with the help of make-up artists and assistants. They usually stand by on set to ensure that the prosthetic is working and looked after.

Assistants help hair and make-up artists by supplying brushes and products, helping fix prosthetics, washing actors’ hair, helping to alter, repair and dress wigs and toupees, running errands, and making sure that performers are well looked after. They prepare the actor’s skin and scalp in advance, and make sure that any allergies or sensitivities are taken into consideration. Assistants are also involved in crowd days by preparing facilities, working on the hair and make-up of large numbers of extras, standing by on set to maintain continuity and may even be given responsibility for minor characters.

Hair and make-up trainees set up the work stations. See separate profile: hair and make-up trainee